Fort Griffin General Merchandise Company

(325) 762-3034

Seriously, now. Why would anybody in their right mind travel 200 miles for a steak? Ah... read on!

In the little town of Albany, Texas, situated about two hours west of Fort Worth, you will find the Fort Griffin General Merchandise Company. Run for 24 years by brothers Ali and Nariman Esfandiary, the steakhouse lives in a building that really was a general merchandise store at Fort Griffin—which does not exist anymore. The building was moved to Albany in 1976, and retains all the charm and appeal of its wild west heritage. Old wood floors still pound out the sound of cowboy boots, and just about two-thirds of the folks walking through the front door will be sporting a cowboy hat. But then, that’s pretty much what the folks that frequent the FGGMC wear every day.

There are a few tourists here and there, but most of the folks that come time and again from afar are just Texans, plain and simple. There’s frequent hugs and “How ya’ll doin?” as regulars walk through the door. And folks turn to each other at the tables to ask about the others cotton or milo crop, how the drought affected them, or how the high school football team is doing. But come from miles away they do. And for good reason.

The Fort Griffin General Merchandise Company cooks a mean steak. And it’s one of the few places on Earth that the chef, Ali, will tell you what kind of steak you want depending on how you like it cooked. Want a rib-eye ($20.95) cooked medium rare? Ali will tell you it’s impossible to get the best flavor like that, because of the cut of that steak. He’ll tell you to go for the filet ($25.99) if that’s how you like it cooked, but will advise against the filet if you like your meat cooked well done. And he is not kidding. His steaks are so perfectly cooked to order, that it would be blasphemous not to listen to his advice.

All the meat is Choice Black Angus that has been wet-aged for 14 months and cooked over mesquite. The steaks are rubbed in Ali’s favorite seasonings, then marinated at room temperature all day. The rub includes olive oil; equal parts of onion powder, garlic powder, margarita salt, and oregano; cracked pepper; and a pinch of cinnamon and nutmeg.

Ali says that his real secret trick to a great steak is to sprinkle on some fresh ground coffee, right before grilling. He can’t do it at the restaurant because of people’s concerns with caffeine. But at home, always. And if you have to grill a steak of unknown quality? “Marinate the meat overnight in yogurt or iced tea,” he says. “It’ll be fantastic, and taste like a million bucks!”

When it’s time to cook the steak, Ali quick-sears it over high heat to retain the juices, then moves it to low heat to finish cooking. Just shy of done, Ali will toss a piece of mesquite bark on the fire, which burns very hot. He’ll let the bark flame, char the steak over it for one minute per side, then bring it out to you steaming hot. And it will be the most amazing steak you have ever tasted! Fork tender, perfectly done inside to your order. Every mouthful a treat to the senses.

Oh, sure. There are all the usual accessories like great baked potatoes, massive onion rings ($3.25), and such. But that’s all just sideshow for the great magic of the steaks. They are the real stars.

For those looking for something else, the Fort Griffin General Merchandise Company offers mesquite-grilled red snapper ($15.95) and sandwiches and burgers ($6.99). But whatever you order, do like the locals and get a Mason jar of iced tea, and have yourself a ball. It’s gonna be amazing!

The Fort Griffin General Merchandise Company opens for dinner at 6 p.m. sharp, and starts taking a list. The room adjoining the restaurant is the old Beehive Saloon where you can get a drink or a good Texas Shiner Bock beer. Because of County laws, the Saloon is a private club. You can get a temporary membership for $3.00, good for three days. Hard to beat that. But get your name on the dinner list ASAP, ’cause chances are good that if you are not on the list by 7 or so, you’ll go hungry! And that would be a shame.

Take the trip to Albany. It’s worth it!

Lunch: Tue-Fri 11 am - 2 pm
Dinner: Tue-Sat 6 pm - 10 pm

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