Mark's Feed Store
 Mark's Feed Store |
11422 Shelbyville Road
Louisville, KY 40243
(502) 244-0140
Sure Kentucky is famous for bluegrass and horses, but I go there for the bourbon and the BBQ! Nothing is finer than taking a drive along the narrow ribbons of blacktop that curve past white-fenced pastures and majestic farms, arc over green canopied creeks, and eventually end up at classic, small-town BBQ joints. ’Course you know you hit it right, when there is smoke gushing from the stack!
Mark’s Feed Store is just such a place. It started out in Downtown Louisville and has since expanded to four restaurants. But if the one in Middletown—about 15 miles outside of Louisville—is any indication, I’m betting they’re all good.
Stroll into Mark’s and it just feels good. Blue-and-white checked tablecloths, metal signs for feed grain and John Deere tractors, busy waitresses going a mile a minute but always willing to stop and chat a nice word. How do they do that? I stopped in on Derby weekend, so the place was full of women and waitresses in colorful and very fancy hats—a Derby tradition!
The waitress, Leslie, didn’t bat an eye when I asked for a pile of BBQ pork, some country toast to pile it on, and a bunch of sides. There was nothing like that on the menu, but she just smiled and took it in stride.
While I sipped on a mug of beer so cold that ice chips floated on top, Leslie brought it on—a full pound of pulled pork ($8.49), which included lots of nice-sized chunks and lots of charred ends. The barbecue is served on rectangular pie plates, so it feels seriously country!
Mark’s barbecue pork is smoked over hickory wood for up to 12 hours and is served very moist and very tender, with just a hint of sauce. There is a subtle smokiness that keeps you coming back for the next bite. You can get chicken, ribs, and beef as well, but I tend to test a BBQ joint based on the pulled pork. And it was great!
The sides were heaven in themselves ($1.79 each) and unusual enough that I just had to try them. Sweet, fried corn on the cob that melts in your mouth, skin-on fries that are served piping hot and spicy, cole slaw that is light and crunchy, and baked beans full of sweetness and tang all mixed up together.
There are two bottles of Mark’s sauce on every table. The “Original” is a tangy yellow-colored mustard and vinegar-based sauce, while the “Red” is a more traditional and slightly spicier blend. My tablemate, Mark Rasner, hit upon the brilliant idea of splashing large portions of each onto his plate, and then dipping massively.
Slice of toast, dip, add pork, dip, indulge. Beer. Repeat.
Perfect!
Do not pass up the homemade buttermilk pie ($1.79). The crust is flaky and crunchy, while the filling is cool and sweet with perfect texture. Unbelievably good. You can also get it topped with ice cream, caramel and nuts, but you gotta stop somewhere, don’t you? Maybe next time. Like on a Monday, when the desserts are free!
Whether you are going to the Derby or not, go to Mark’s Feed Store. Go hungry, and eat mightily. Like the back of Leslie’s T-shirt says, “This little piggie went to Mark’s!” Yep, that was me!
JGE © 2007
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