Papa Sid's

Blue Hill Road, just north of the first roundabout
Nassau, NP (No postal code in Nassau.)

Even when asked straight-out, locals often hesitate to give you the gouge on “locals-only” food because they know most people, when they say “local” really mean Denny’s! No matter where they are. So finding the best local joints can be downright difficult sometimes.

It’s no different in the Bahamas. Maybe even harder, if you are white. The locals just can’t believe that somebody white would want to go eat real Bahamian food at a Take-Away joint, on the “other” side of town.

After some major effort, I scored the name and location of Papa Sid’s—a tiny, hard-to-find spot that is unbelievably popular with the locals. No bigger than a shoebox, this Take-Away spot is famous for their stews and souse. Everything is homemade, including both the banana bread and the potato bread.

When I went, there was a long line of eaters, coming and going, each offering menu suggestions once they got over their surprise at seeing a white face. Locals go to Papa Sid’s for the souse, available all day, every day, unlike some restaurants that only carry it in the morning or on weekends.

Souse is a soup unique to the Bahamas. The Mutton souse ($10) comes in a big container packed with tender, flavorful, fall-off-the-bone mutton, clear broth, and slivers of carrots, onions, spices, and habañero peppers. Do as the locals do, and request extra pepper. You’ll get several large pieces of orange habañero to stir in.

Pigfeet souse ($6) is a popular dish, with darker broth, and jam-packed with pigs feet. They were out of the Sheep Tounge stew ($7), an island favorite, but frequent eaters say it is ultra-tender and really good. Apparently, since it was long gone.

Conch Stew ($12/large, $7/small) comes packed with chunks of conch, potatoes, and vegetables. Dip in a hunk of Johnnycake ($2) for a mouth-watering event. Careful about those peppers, though!

There is one small picnic table in front of the take-away window, and it’s fun to just sit and see what folks order. Nobody seems to use the table, as all the orders are to go. Customers included cops (in their really cool-looking white tunics and striped trousers), bus drivers, and construction workers. Nobody was a first timer. And they all got souse.

If you mention that you have gone to Papa Sid’s, don’t be surprised when the locals don’t believe you. They just won’t. Several people made me recite the exact location, or wanted to know who had told me about it. Then, they just laughed and shook their heads.

Most people go to Nassau, stay in the pristine hotels along Bay Street, and never wander over the hill to see what the rest of the island looks like. It is a great place, full of delightful people. You just have to be willing to leave the cruise ship or hotel to find out.

And best of all, Papa Sid’s offers a free meal on your birthday! That alone is worth the journey.

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